As my gaze shifted from my backpack to my mound of “couldn’t-live-without-it” items (which included a jar of peanut butter and strawberry jam) , I began to question the imminent need of taking my blow-dryer, hair straighter and yoga mat to the South Central Andes . Looking into the bowels of my bag I felt like a contestant on a game show in which, upon finding the right combination and placement of items I would win a trip to a far away place. I tugged, tightened and compressed my backpack with a similar agility and grace one uses to pack a sleeping bag- dreading the inevitable repetition of this poorly choreographed act in the days to follow. So began my journey to the south central highlands of Ayacucho-a small Andean region with a big history.
Travelling to the Andes has evolved over the years. Gone are the days of collectivo travel (any vehicle such as a bus, mini van or a car that is used for public transport), packed full with more people than seats available. These knee-numbing journeys often took days to complete, and were likely accompanied by flat tires, broken axels, and crazy drivers. Today’s bus journey is juxtapositioned in stark contrast to the voyages of the highland combis. In fact, one of the most popular bus companies in Peru, Cruz del Sur, now services a route between Lima and Ayacucho . And for the standard $30 ticket you can get better service on this 9-hr bus ride than on many present day airlines. The buses are equipped with completely reclinable leather seats, blankets and pillows, meals, wi-fi, flat screen televisions, and an attendant who tucks you in and sings you a lullaby (okay, so no rock-a-bye-baby, but it comes close).
To reach Ayacucho from Lima, one travels over 500km and climbs to over 2,761 meters above sea level. The road is paved the entire way, with minor stretches needing resurfacing. And although the buses’ interior provides the comforts of a cuna (cradle) there is nothing in the way of barriers between the edge of a barrelling bus and the precipe below. At times I felt I had reverted to a scene of Honey I Shrunk the Kids, as the rigid turns of the vehicle were reminiscent of a toddler playing with a toy bus that could be easily tossed to the side when he became bored. The hundreds of roadside memorials which marked the route from Lima to Ayacucho, were a reminder that that even a first class doubledecker fleet was not invincible to these treacherous Andean roads.
The road to Ayacucho had been off limits until the recent decade. During the 80’s and 90’s terrorism inflicted by the Shining Path (Sendero Luminoso: a Maoist/ Marxist group who launched a guerrilla war against the Peruvian government) often left these highland roads inaccessible and dangerous. It was not uncommon to find massacred bodies in the middle of the road after night time raids in surrounding villages. And, in an attempt to interrupt access between the highlands and Lima, many roads were blocked to keep the army out.
Today, the road between Ayacucho and Lima remains less travelled but there is increasing evidence of Ayacucho landing a place on the “gringo map”. In fact, a popular adventure travel agency (GAP adventures) now offers tours to Ayacucho as part of its highland travel itinerary. Visitors are greeted with warmth in this city of around 130,000 inhabitants, where reverend celebrations are daily practice in the main plaza.
It was breaking dawn as the bus descended into the city, and my adventure into this colourful, colonial-style town began… (to be continued).
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